A Daily Dinner: Burgers and “Chips”

Hamburgers, red wine and thrice-cooked chips

Inspired by some of the fantastic burgers served at restaurants all around New York City, we’ve been experimenting all summer long on our own—topping our burgers with stinky Roquefort cheese, making juicy patties from salmon fillets, and even slicing fresh avocados as a side in an effort to make these decadent meals seem healthier.

Now, on the last weekend of the fading summer, we shifted the focus from the burger to its companions, fries and drink.

Hamburger with Cheese and French Fries

How to make thrice-cooked chips from The Breslin

Cashing in on the genius of Chef April Bloomfield of The Breslin, we made Bloomfield’s famed thrice-cooked “chips”—what those of us stateside call French fries. Thanks to being boiled and then fried, twice, these fries are crispy on the outside, fluffy and tender on the inside. Unlike traditional chips, these retain their crispiness, giving them a satisfying potato chip-like crunch when bitten into.

We also accompanied them with a homemade cumin mayonnaise, as they are served at The Breslin.

How to make cumin mayonaise

Thrice-Cooked Chips
From April Bloomfield’s The Breslin

4 large baking potatoes, washed but not peeled
Kosher salt
Vegetable or canola oil, for frying

1. Cut the potatoes into 1/3″-thick steak fries and transfer to a bowl of cold water. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drain the potatoes, add them to the pot and boil just until tender, about 5 minutes. Carefully drain the potatoes and transfer them to a paper towel–lined rack to cool. Refrigerate until chilled. This step can be done up to 24 hours in advance.

2. In a large, deep skillet, heat 2″ of oil to 250 degrees. Set a rack over a baking sheet. Working in batches, fry the potatoes just until they begin to brown around the edges, about 8 minutes. Transfer the potatoes to the rack and let cool.

3. Once all of the potatoes have been fried once, heat the oil to 350 degrees. Fry the potatoes again, in batches, until golden and crisp, about 7 minutes per batch. Drain the fries on a paper towel–lined baking sheet, sprinkle with salt and serve.

A hamburger and red wine

Once our fries were piping hot and our burger’s brioche buns were taking their trip under the broiler, we popped the cork on the evening’s beverage.

Foregoing the traditional burger pairing of beer, we chowed down on our burgers accompanied by a bottle of Silver Oak Alexander Valley 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine that brings with it a subtle flavor of dark cherries and currants with plenty of oak and spice.

SIlver Oak 2006 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

The wine was full-bodied enough to contend with both the burger’s sharp cheddar and the saltiness of the chips, while maintaining a juicy, easily drinkable style.

We hope this will be the first of many hearty meals this fall. (And many bottles of red wine, too, if we’re lucky.)

– Laura and Ryan

8 thoughts on “A Daily Dinner: Burgers and “Chips””

  • I love the idea of burgers, frites and high end cabernet. I hope you were celebrating your new partnership with Gilt. Silver Oak is certainly not an everyday wine, unless you work on Wall Street or you have a rich uncle 9or aunt).
    I would love to see some under $20 per bottle wine pairings for your working class followers.

    • The idea of Silver Oak not being an everyday wine was indeed meant to be part of the charm of the dinner. We actually have many budget-friendly wines (and unique pairings) in mind for future dinners (Laura has suggested I do an entire blog on under $20 wines many times, so stay tuned!). -RS

      • If you were lucky enough to be gifted more than one Silver Oak, I suggest you open the bottle before dinner preparations to let it catch some air. Your wine will be even better if allowed to breath.
        Ps. I love your blog. The columns are informative and amusing/whimsical at the same time.

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