Montreal: Via Amtrak

Amtrak Tickets from New York City to Montreal

Whenever we travel, Laura and I cut costs by swapping apartments. We weren’t planning any trips this spring, but a few months ago Laura saw a listing for a couple in Montreal who wanted to stay in Manhattan in May. We figured why not?

After working out all the details with our new French friends, we decided to forego a plane trip in favor of the Amtrak Adirondack line, direct from New York City to Montreal’s Central Station. The price was right and we heard from friends that it was one of the most scenic trips they had ever taken.

Apple trees blossoming in New York State

The Albany, New York skyline from the Amtrak Adirondack line

After waking up a few hours before our usual time, we headed to Penn Station and boarded the train to Montreal. The trip was scheduled to take 10 hours including all stops, so we settled in for the long journey.

We didn’t end up sleeping very much, as the scenery kept us awake for most of the trip. The first leg of the journey took us along the Hudson River, with views of the Palisades, West Point, Bear Mountain and other natural landmarks. Soon the background changed to sprawling farmland and small towns before we sidled up next to luscious green Vermont and Lake Champlain. It took a few cups of coffee to make it to this point, but the train was comfortable (despite the non-functioning WiFi) and we were enjoying the new experience.

The New York and Canadian borders as seen from the Amtrak Adirondack line

Finally, we reached the border where we sat for about 45 minutes after customs agents inspected everyone’s passports and declaration forms. This was definitely the least interesting part of the trip, as the café car was closed and the scenery not so interesting.

We got on our way and a little more than an hour later, we pulled into Montreal’s Central Station, ready to find our little apartment and prepare for our first Québécois experience: dinner at the famed Au Pied de Cochon.

- Ryan and Laura

Upstate New York on Amtrak

A Boat floating along the Hudson River

The Tappan Zee Bridge in New York as seen from the Amtrak Adirondack line

The tracks on the Amtrak Adirondack line to Montreal from New York City

Melvin’s Juice Box

Melvin's Juice Box in SoHo, New York City

Adjacent to the excellent Miss Lily’s on Houston Street, is the new home of Melvin Major—the juice king of New York.

Melvin developed a celebrity-cult following during his years at Lifethyme Market a few blocks up Sixth Avenue, and, at the beginning of this year, finally broke away to open his own spot as part of the Miss Lily’s empire.

Interior of Melvin's Juice Box, inside Miss Lily's in NYC

The space is located in the back of Miss Lily’s Variety, a shop that sells rare and influential Reggae vinyl along with posters and other memorabilia.

The store is as bright and happy as Melvin himself with blue-and-white tile floors, colorful peg menu boards and vintage tables and chairs.

Selection of fresh fruits and vegetables at Melvin's Juice Box and Miss Lily's Bake Shop in SoHo

The juices all have clever names like “Jamaican Green” and “Catch a Fire” and are all made using organic fruits and vegetables. We love “The Real V-8,” a mix of kale, collard greens, cabbage, red onion, red pepper, tomato, lemon, ginger, garlic, apple cider vinegar and cayenne pepper.

Juices aside, the shakes are a personal favorite of ours. Unlike some big name places around town they aren’t watered-down with a ton of ice or made into sugary confections. The protein shakes aren’t just breakfast worthy—you may find yourself not wanting lunch either.

If you are still feeling peckish, the food menu has Jamaican staples like beef patties and jerk chicken, perfect to enjoy on the benches out front or at one of the tables in the presence of Melvin, working his magic.

Melvin Major pouring a juice at his juice bar inside Miss Lily's in the Village

Indeed, the best thing about the Juice Box is Melvin himself. He is simply a joy to be around, and maintains a smile the entire time you’re talking to him. He is passionate about the juice he makes, and has definitely worked hard to make sure each recipe is perfect.

When I asked for a picture he responded sternly “Five dollars!”, but after waiting a few seconds he flashed his blinding smile at me, let out a hearty laugh and told me to take as many as I wanted as he continued chopping away at lemons and beets.

Apples being chopped for fresh juice at Melvin's Juice Box in Greenwich Village, NYC

The Catch a Fire juice at Melvin's Juice Box in Manhattan

We’re hoping Melvin stays right where he is this time, though now that we’ve discovered his addictive elixirs, we would probably follow him wherever he might go.

- Ryan

P.S. Enjoy your weekend! We are off to Montreal on Saturday a little mini-vacation next week. We’re taking the Amtrak up, which we’ve heard is gorgeous. Anyone ever done it?

A Daily Dinner: Fettuccine with Nettles and Lemon

Fettuccine with Lemon, Nettles, and Mascarpone from New York Magazine's In Season

One of my favorite parts about getting New York Magazine every week is the “In Season” feature. In this one page feature, the magazine has a New York city chef pick an ingredient that’s currently available at the greenmarket and share a recipe using said ingredient.

Most of the ingredients are basic seasonal staples—overwintered spinach, broccoli raab, asparagus—but every so often they throw something a little more exotic into the mix. Last week: stinging nettles.

Preparing stinging nettle leaves

I try a lot of the recipes featured, but whenever I can get my hands on something out of the ordinary, I go for it. Just $1.75 later, I had a huge bunch of stinging nettles.

Now, as you might remember from childhood (and as I do very well from gorilla trekking in Africa a couple of years ago), stinging nettles aren’t pleasant. The leaves are covered with hundreds of minuscule spines that cause a rash and irritation. Surprisingly this goes away once they’re cooked, but I still donned my rubber gloves as I tore the leaves.

Even after blanching in salted water, the nettles were delicious. They were soft, like cooked spinach, but had an earthy quality that I can’t really compare to anything else. I likely could have eaten them all on their own, but alas, the accompaniment of fresh fettuccine from Murray’s and bright mascarpone and lemon pushed the dish over the edge.

Fresh Mascarpone, Lemon and Fettuccine

Fettuccine With Nettles and Lemon
Adapted from New York Magazine

6 oz. stinging-nettle leaves
1 lb. fettuccine
2 tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 tsp. black pepper
Pinch of chile flakes
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 1/2 tbsp. mascarpone
2 tbsp. Parmigiano-Reggiano

1. While wearing gloves, pick off the nettle leaves and discard tough stems. In a pot, blanch the nettles in boiling salted water and drain.

2. Roughly chop the nettles and reserve. In a large pot, bring salted water to a boil and cook pasta until al dente. While the pasta is cooking, heat two tablespoons of the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add garlic, black pepper, and chile flakes, and cook until the garlic is golden brown. Add the chopped nettles to the pan and toss with the garlic until the nettles are warm. Add half of the lemon juice, and remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the mascarpone and half of the lemon zest with the nettles mixture. Finish cooking the pasta, reserving a little of the cooking water, and drain.

3. Return the sauté pan to the burner over medium heat. Add the pasta and toss with the reserved pasta water and the nettles mixture. Adjust seasoning with the remaining lemon juice and zest, and more black pepper. Finish with the Parmigiano-Reggiano and olive oil.

Stinging Nettle Leaves used in Pasta

Flowering Broccoli Rabe

Despite the delicious plate of pasta, our meal wasn’t yet complete. I sautéed up some beautiful overwintered broccoli rabe (note the gorgeous yellow blossoms), also from the market, and we sat back and enjoyed both our meal and the Kentucky Derby, juleps in hand.

- Laura

P.S. If you want something a bit more “tame” (or simply don’t care for eating poisonous plants—completely understandable), the asparagus soup from this week’s In Season feature sounds excellent.

Weekday Project: A Rustic Restoration

Repurposing a Kitchen Island by painting it white

One of the most surprising things about living in ultra-expensive New York City is how often you can find amazing things for free. Some of the best finds in our apartment—many of our books, our rickety old bar cart, our mid-century credenza—were either snatched off the curb or purchased for a song.

Because of the effort it takes to move around the city, oftentimes people will trash perfectly good household items rather than hassle with moving them. The phrase one man’s trash is another man’s treasure has never been more true.

Kitchen Island with Granite Top

Last week, I was taking an early morning walk down Morton Street when I saw an abandoned kitchen island on the curb.

The wood was an ugly color—that light, attempting-to-be-modern-but-failing birch shade—but the island was sturdy and the best part: the top featured a cutting board and granite top, in addition to a ton of storage below. Aside from missing a door, it appeared to be in great shape, just too heavy to move.

Using Anthropologie Handles to remodel a piece of kitchen furniture

My creative wheels began to turn and I scurried back to the apartment and grabbed Ryan. We lugged the heavy piece back to our doorstep, temporarily storing it in our hallway while I planned my mode of attack.

The first thing: recruit back-up. I called my friend Olivia and with the promise of beer and a nice night on the stoop, she came right over to assist.

Repainting a kitchen island white for a quick and easy makeover

We had plenty of white paint and brushes, so I ran to the hardware store for sandpaper while Ryan went to Anthropologie to search for new handles to replace the island’s old brushed steel ones. We started by sanding off the wood veneer so that our new layer of paint would stick. We didn’t sand too much, as I wanted some of the wood’s texture to come through, giving the piece an antique look without the effort of a faux finish.

After sanding, we applied one coat of white paint and within an hour (and several Blue Point lagers later) we had the entire piece painted.

Handle Pulls from Anthropologie used to help remodel a kitchen island

Ryan chose gorgeous Sibella Court pliant rope handles that suited the painted cabinet perfectly. After letting the paint dry, we attached the handles and admired our handy work.

I wish I had before pictures, but honestly, we had no idea it was going to turn out so well. We are thrilled to have added extra storage space and another work surface to our matchbox kitchen. The grand total: $24, for the handles.

- Laura

Moving furniture up a Manhattan walk-up apartment

A kitchen island, repurposed from a New York City sidewalk

Tuesdays with Murray: Roncal

Roncal Cheese and a Baguette

Sometimes, the best cheese is one you can just snack on. One that requires only a baguette and a knife for you to enjoy. Feeling the need for a quick snack myself, I walked over to Murray’s to find something that would keep me going until dinnertime.

After sampling a few cheeses from the case that were either tangier or milkier than I wanted, I finally found the Roncal—a sheep’s milk from Spain that had the perfect blend of nutty flavor and creaminess. The Roncal also has a bit of mustiness and smoke that I always love in a good cheese.

Sliced Roncal cheese on a baguette with an Opinel knife

Roncal, made in one of seven villages in the Valle de Roncal, has buttery and slightly spicy flavors with a solid, but still chewy texture. Similar to Pecorino Toscano and Manchego, Roncal has its own unique character that pairs well with wines made in the province of Navarre, along the Spain-France border. Of course, any Tempranillo-based wine would also be delicious to sip with this complex cheese.

Simply sliced over my baguette, this was exactly what I needed to get me through the day. Roncal may even be a future workhorse cheese for us, as it would make a great sub for grated Pecorino on our next pasta night!

- Ryan

Roncal, a Spanish sheep's milk cheese