beach

Rockaway Ride

Rockaway Beach umbrellas and towels

We love going to Rockaway Beach, but when we were planning our trip out there this weekend, we decided to forego the monotony of the A train in favor of a more exciting mode of transportation: our bikes.

The day promised to be hot, but we filled our bike basket with lots of water, sunscreen, snacks and other beach-y necessities and headed on our way down the Hudson River Greenway.

Bike riding over the brooklyn bridge in new york city

Our 22-mile route took us over the Brooklyn Bridge, where we dutifully dodged wayward tourists and toddlers, into downtown Brooklyn and beautiful Boerum Hill and Prospect Heights before we headed south on Bedford Avenue.

The ride is mostly flat and there’s actually a lot of shade. We stopped briefly at a fruit stand in Flatbush to drink some water and cool off for a moment, but then we were back on our bikes, the idea of a cool beach breeze enticing us to keep going.

Riding a bikeon the bike lane through Brooklyn Heights in Brooklyn

A fruit stand in east Flatbush, Brooklyn, near Bedford Avenue

After passing through Flatbush and riding by Brooklyn College, the urban hustle and bustle gives way to the idyllic suburb-like homes of Midwood. The beautifully manicured lawns and wide streets, canopied with large trees, made for pleasant riding as we rode closer and closer to our ultimate goal.

Finally, six miles after turning onto Bedford Avenue, the road ends in Sheepshead Bay, right at the water. We were immediately greeted with salty air, screaming gulls, fishing rigs and bait and tackle shops, making it seem like the city part of our journey had come to an end.

Stella Maris Bait Shop in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn

A dock and boat in Sheepshead bay in Brooklyn

We made one pit stop in Sheepshead Bay at Roll ‘N Roaster, a timewarp fast food joint that has been serving Brooklynites roast beef and cheese fries for 40 years now.

Sated with our orangeade and radioactive-hued cheese fries, we made the final push toward Rockaway.

Cheese Fries at Roll n Roaster in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn

Dead Horse Bay bike path in Queens, NYC

We rode over the narrow and windy Marine Parkway Bridge, which ends at Jacob Riis Park, another great New York City beach. Alas, Rockaway was our goal so we turned east and pushed on for a few more miles, taking in the stately homes of Neponsit Belle Harbor before riding down the Rockaway Beach boardwalk.

As soon as we arrived, we snacked on fried shrimp from Motorboat & the Big Banana and housemade rose petal sodas from La Casa de Camba before diving headfirst into the Atlantic Ocean. The water was just the right temperature after hours on a bike, making the ride all the more rewarding.

Laura Ratliff on the beach at Rockaway, Queens

The boardwalk at Rockaway Beach in Queens, NYC

After lounging for a few hours, we tried a beer ice cream float from our new Rockaway favorite, Steve’s Ice Cream. It is just as it sounds—but surprisingly tasty.

By this point, the sun had begun to set so we, deservedly, rode the A train back to Manhattan.

- Laura and Ryan

Ryan Smith on the boardwalk at Rockaway Beach

Marc Jacbos Paris Beach Towel

Los Angeles: From the Getty to Malibu

The Getty Museum in L.A.

Still on East Coast time, we got an early start to our day on Thursday.

Continuing our coffee trek, we headed toward downtown to check out Handsome Coffee Roasters. Handsome’s space in the Arts District is bright and airy; like restaurants with an open kitchen, Handsome’s restored 1950s Probat roaster is on full display.

Handsome Coffee Roasters in Los Angeles

Coffee at Handsome Roasters

Espresso with Milk at Handsome

We hung out with our espresso and milk for a few minutes before getting on the freeway to head toward our next stop of the day, the Getty Museum.

Perched on a large hill and surrounded by gardens, the Getty was the perfect early afternoon stop. We spent a lot of time at the Herb Ritts photography exhibit currently on view before enjoying the lush, green gardens and vast blue sky. It’s such a cathartic place to spend the afternoon.

View from Getty Museum

Gardens at the Getty Museum

After leaving the Getty, we headed toward the Pacific Coast Highway and drove up to Malibu to take in some of the lovely views that Highway 1 offers.

We paused for a bit to snack on some fried seafood at Malibu Seafood and then parked and walked along the surf. California beaches are a lot smoother and sandier than our New York beaches and we also don’t have anything that compares to the natural beauty of Malibu, so we enjoyed the relaxing drive.

Fried Shrimp at Malibu Seafood

Fiat 500 in Malibu

Ryan Smith on the Beach in Malibu

We stopped in Santa Monica briefly on the way back, but we had another destination planned for the evening: dinner at Animal.

The heralded nose-to-tail restaurant was one of our most anticipated meals of the trip.

Menu at Animal

Veal Tongue, Smoked Foie Gras, Crab Apple at Animal

Chicken Liver Toast at Animal

Chicken Fried Sweetbreads at Animal

We enjoyed a hamachi tostada, veal tongue and foie gras, chicken liver toast, chicken-fried sweetbreads, oxtail poutine (almost took us back to Montreal!), and barbecued pork belly sliders.

Completely stuffed, we drove down Hollywood Boulevard and tucked into our apartment for the night.

- Laura

Savoring Summer’s Last Waves

The beach at Montauk, Long Island, New York

With summer’s days growing shorter, our wanderlust has increased tenfold.

We’re planning a trip to Portland, Maine, at the end of this month, but we were still eager to make one last escape from the city this Labor Day weekend and spend a day sunning and splashing in the sand and the surf.

The Beach at Montauk

Our friend Olivia is in town again, so rather than making a multi-day trip, we rented a car for the day and headed east toward Montauk.

Clam Bar restaurant near Amagansett, New York

Despite a rocky start—a portion of the Montauk Highway was completely closed, delaying us by more than an hour—we safely made it to the tip of Long Island, where we beelined to Clam Bar, a veritable shack serving up some of the freshest seafood you can imagine, all under the cover of lemon-striped beach umbrellas.

A lobster salad roll from Clam Bar

We gorged on lobster rolls, buttery steamed corn on the cob, and fresh clams on their half-shells. The rolls were piled high with huge chunks of lobster meat, and luckily for us, not much else.

It was the perfect meal to remind us that we had officially left the New York City limits and were now entering another world entirely.

Clams and corn from Clam Bar on Long Island, New York

After stuffing our bellies with lobster, we loaded back into the car for the short drive to the beach.

It was an unseasonably warm day and the beach wasn’t yet overtaken with throngs of fellow New Yorkers, so we unpacked our gear and settled in.

Ruschmeyer's Bikes and Gulls

A Boxsal picnic box and Govino wine glasses on the beach

After a couple of hours of relentless waves and sprays of sand, we were feeling a bit peckish again, but luckily we had come prepared with our Boxsal picnic box, fully stocked with perfect beach food.

We had brought along an heirloom tomato salad, pasta with neon eggplant, summer squash, pancetta and goat cheese and a baguette.

2009 Freeman Vineyard "Ryo-Fu" Chardonnay

But our main star of the show was bottled: a 2009 Freeman Vineyard “Ryo-Fu” Chardonnay, served in sturdy, plastic (but still classy!) Govino stemless wine glasses. The wine had a robust, oaky character with lots of complexity. It was perfect for beach-side sipping.

New Orleans-style iced coffee from Coffee Tauk

Finally, the afternoon began to draw to a close. We were in need of a caffeine boost before the late drive home, so we popped into the cleverly-named Coffee Tauk for one last pick me up.

We’re sad to see summer come to an end, but I think we’re both secretly looking forward to breaking out our sweater collections, breathing crisp fall air and stepping on crunchy colorful leaves.

Until next year, Montauk.

- Ryan and Laura

Ryan Smith and Laura Ratlif

Photo by Olivia Divecchia.

Laura is wearing Rodarte’s Love Hate sweatshirt from Opening Ceremony. Ryan is wearing GANT Rugger.

Rockaway Beach’s New Wave

A red and white bullseye beach umbrella at Rockaway Beach in Queens, New York.

One of my favorite parts of summer is taking the ‘A’ train out to Rockaway Beach in Queens.

I love watching the huge waves continuously crash against the shore and seeing all the surfers who come to ride them. It’s a relaxing escape from the city without even leaving its limits.

The weather today was slightly overcast and a bit chilly, but as you can see, that didn’t stop people from enjoying the Rockaway’s charms.

People crowd the beach on a Wednesday afternoon at Rockaway Beach in Queens, New York.

A man builds a sand castle along Rockaway Beach in Queens, New York.

Typically I pack a little lunch for myself since most of the concessions usually involve fluorescent yellow cheese or dirty water hot dogs.

This year, however, the boardwalk at Rockaway Beach has been taken over by some of the best vendors in the city.

Blue Bottle Coffee along the boardwalk at Rockaway Beach in Queens, New York.

San Francisco-based Blue Bottle Coffee opened up shop at Rockaway Beach in Queens, New York, for summer 2011.

Blue Bottle's drip coffee at their Rockaway Beach, Queens, location.

I was particularly excited when I heard that San Francisco-based Blue Bottle Coffee was setting up a beachfront shop. Their New Orleans-style iced coffee is the most perfect drink for the beach.

Caracas at Rockaway Beach serves up arepas, micheladas and more.

They share their airy space with the East Village empanada joint Caracas. Caracas is serving up arepas and tangy micheladas in addition to bean and cheese or fish empanadas.

A michelada from Caracas at Rockaway Beach.

Just a few doors down is Rockaway Taco, the vendor who started this Rockaway revitalization.

Rippers at Rockaway Beach in Queens, New York

Rippers, a Rockaway Beach collaboration between Brooklyn's Roberta's and The Meat Hook.

One of our favorite restaurants has even been sucked into the surf, so to speak.

Roberta’s has teamed up with The Meat Hook to open Rippers, a surf shop meets burger joint that serves up twisted takes on concessions of yore. Go here for your hot dogs, but they won’t be rotating on a rusty grill all afternoon.

If you get a chance to head out that way, don’t forget your appetite along with your sunscreen.

- Ryan

A cook at Rippers in Rockaway Beach, Queens, prepares fresh French fries.

A surfer holds his surf board at Rockaway Beach in Queens, New York

 A "Fish Boat" from Motorboat and the Big Banana

A Soho Reprieve at Saturdays Surf

A mock surf trophy lines the shelf at Soho's Saturdays Surf.

Just last week New York was hit with a sweltering heat wave that left many of us wishing for a day at the beach. While we may not always have the time for a trip to Coney Island or the Rockaways, it’s nice to have somewhere close that makes you feel as if you’re about to dive into the ocean.

Wet suits hang in the garden at Soho's Saturdays Surf.

Saturdays Surf, located on the eastern edge of Soho, is a laid-back espresso bar slash surf shop that acts as a meeting ground for New York City’s surfing socialites.

Retail at Saturdays Surf

Standing inside the shop (or their outdoor garden) is more reminiscent being in a beachside cabin than in the city. Surfboards line the entrance and surfing trophies mingle with the merchandise on shelves. The light even seems to come through the windows as if it were leaking through cracks in the wooden walls.

Shoes at Saturdays Surf

Retail at Saturdays Surf

The shop of course specializes in selling surf equipment and accessories, with a few racks of surfer stylish clothing mixed in. Canvas bags and sunglasses round out the store’s offerings.

Bags for Sale at Saturdays Surf

Racks of Clothing at Saturdays Surf

The espresso bar is the main draw for many, especially those that don’t surf. Saturdays uses La Colombe espresso for their cappuccinos and lattes. The cappuccino I had was one of the best I’ve had in some time.

Brewing La Colombe at Saturdays Surf

A couple of benches at the entrance make up the seating for the coffee shop, ensuring that you won’t find people typing away at their laptops here.

Coffee and Boards at Saturdays Surf

More surfboards and wetsuits hang along the fence in the expansive backyard area. Planters, seemingly made out of driftwood freshly picked off the beach, are filled with flowers more fitting to SoCal than to Soho. The scattered bikes and boards give the feeling that a beach party might erupt at any moment.

Bikes and Boards in the Garden at Saturdays Surf

The Garden at Saturdays Surf

The only thing that sends you back to reality is stepping back out onto Crosby Street and feeling pavement against your feet, rather than sand between your toes.

-Ryan

Saturdays Surf on Crosby Street